All Cook Should Train Here’: Modest Turkish Dining Spot Earns Fourth on List of London’s Best Food Spots.

Whenever compiling a list of London’s best restaurants, one might anticipate familiar award-winning names. But, nestled near the top among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a distant part of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

The little Turkish restaurant, specialising in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been declared the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent culinary publication. The recognition has left the owners utterly surprised.

“I am completely astonished,” states the family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their small shop securing such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Appeal of Simplicity

This small shop, which used to be a basic cafe before its transformation into a popular destination, has retained much of its original character. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Dish: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all about the cuisine, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s signature dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to keep a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and red, paprika-infused oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. A leading food critic labelled this dish “a part of London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, imparting it a richer, nuttier and more balanced taste.

Outranking the Giants

Remarkably, this modest spot has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave this place full for below £25, comparable tasting menus at high-end establishments can start at many times that price.

A Creed of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It is not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an assumption that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and finest food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“I believe what is most important is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This view is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he was in a position of authority, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to teach them the traps of overcomplication, and to show what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike most chefs running kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not work at fancy restaurants. “I am really proud of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

Many restaurants need years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to tireless, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum was very tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mother and she managed a life outside work but her friends would support her to help her. She had children and a house to care for as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

This restaurant’s success is set to echo outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.